I am generally not a fan of kits/ PNP or RTF quads, especially for racing since they tend to come with lower quality parts to keep the price low and you can often get better value from custom builds. However, the FuriBee X215 is one of the exceptions, and looking at the specs it seems like it could be a solid performer. In this post I will review this quadcopter – looking over the specifications, build quality and flight performance.
Here is a quick disclaimer (inspired by SoloProFan on RCGroups) before we get to the review itself.
Disclaimer: This product was provided for free to review by Gearbest. I will do my best to keep this review fair and unbiased. Product specifications and quality may vary at the manufacturer’s discretion, and are beyond my influence. I cannot guarantee you will get a product that performs exactly the same as seen and described in this review.
The quad arrived unharmed. It was well packed in a cardboard box, wedged into a block of pretty dense foam.
This is what you get out of the box:
- The quad itself
- A 3D printed TPU camera mount which looks like it fits the GoPro Session 5
- 8 Extra propellers – so 12 in total
- The VTx antenna – a short Pagoda design which you need to mount when you unbox the quad.
After looking over the quad these are my inital thoughts:
- Motors: 2206 2600 kv – These have the potential to make a pretty fast quad. 2600 kv is towards the higher side and so should do well with light props like the new DAL T5051C or HQ V1S. They sound and feel nice and smooth out of the box. Hopefully the magnets are the standard N52 commonly used now. My only gripe is that these use the bullet/ cone type nuts instead of standard M5/ flanged locknuts. The motors also come with CW/CCW threading which is safer, but also means that I had to buy extra reverse threaded locknuts.
- Frame: This frame is obviously heavily ‘inspired by’, if not an outright clone of the DQuad Obsession. The main difference appears to be the ends of the arms – the Furibee has ‘claws’ at the ends. The frame feels quite solid with minimal flex. At 95g it is heavier than racing frames but lighter than most freestyle frames but it appears to use mostly steel bolts which adds more weight. The carbon fibre has an interesting pattern – the only source of information I could find online calls it “Constellation Pattern” weave. From what I understand it is only a cosmetic change on the surface layer of the carbon and does not actually affect the strength. There is a buzzer/ RGB LED board on the back which is a nice aesthetic touch/ useful for finding a downed quad but not strictly necessary. The buzzer especially may be helpful for beginners assuming it is loud enough in open spaces.
- ESCs/FC/VTx Stack – Looking at the specifications the electronics seem modern and good. The soldering appears solid, although the joints are not as shiny as I would prefer. Hopefully they did not use lead-free solder. Unfortunately the flight controller is not soft mounted and I have ordered a set of rubber standoffs for it just in case. The VTx has a button and display for changing channel and power and seems simple enough to use. It comes with a stubby Pagoda style antenna. It also has the Frsky XM+ receiver which is tiny but has full range, albeit no telemetry.
- The first thing I did before the first plug in was to remove the propellers for safety.
- The next step is to bind the receiver to your radio. Put your transmitter in bind mode and then using a screwdriver/ pencil etc. press down the bind button (next to the antennas) on the XM+ receiver and plug in the quad. A solid green LED indicates that it has been bound successfully.
- I then went into Betaflight configurator and saved a dump of the stock configuration as a backup. I also verified that the configuration was correct and made a few changes – e.g. switching off the accelerometer and turning up the rates (this quad comes with default rates and PIDs). For some reason this quad seems to be set up for Tramp VTx control over Smartport even though the included receiver does not have telemetry and there is no mention of the VTx supporting control from the FC.
- The current sensor on the 4-in-1 ESC does not appear to work. No matter what i set it to, it reads a constant values of ~33A on the bench even with nothing running. If you take a look at flight videos posted by other reviewers it is the same, roughly constant amp reading.
- I then tried spinning up the motors but out of the box the ESCs are not calibrated and the protocol is set to Oneshot125. You can choose to either calibrate them or change the protocol to DShot600 so there is no need for calibration. After that the motors spun up very smooth and had an impressively low idle, standard for BLHeli_S.
- VTx settings – the VTx does not come with any instructions. To scroll to the next channel in a band, tap the button once. To open the band select menu, double tap the button and then use a single press to scroll. And to open the power select menu, triple-tap the button and select o (pit mode), L (25 mW) or H (300mW).
Here is a Betaflight dump of the stock configuration. When I feel my unit is well tuned I will add my own dump.
With my initial setup done I had no problem with the first flight. A quick test hover LOS and then I put my goggles on and went for a quick flight around the field. The quad initially felt a bit sluggish and the response was not as crisp as I liked. The camera felt like it had excellent resolution but the image was quite saturated. I will try adjusting the settings on it using a standard HS1177 OSD cable. The video was also noisier than my quad running the TBS Unify 200mW. However I am not sure what power level the VTx was on as it took me some time to figure out how to change the settings. However, after adjusting the PIDs a bit it flew much better and I can say I am quite happy with this quad. I will keep this post updated with more information and flight videos as I keep flying and tuning it!